One of the best-preserved ancient cities in the world, Ephesus is the first place anyone staying in İzmir should set a day aside for. From Bornova the motorway brings you down to Selçuk in about an hour, and the House of the Virgin Mary and Şirince can be folded into the same day.
What to see at Ephesus
Walking the marble streets you come upon the Library of Celsus — a building that still stops you in your tracks, however many photographs of it you have seen. The Great Theatre, which seated 25,000, the Temple of Hadrian and the separately ticketed Terrace Houses are the other key stops. Do not skip the Terrace Houses: the wall paintings and mosaics of these Roman homes show that the city was never only about monuments.
The two-gate question: building the route properly
Ephesus has two entrances — the upper (Magnesia) gate and the lower (Harbour) gate. Because the ancient city is built on a slope, entering at the upper gate and leaving by the lower one makes the entire walk downhill. Leaving your car at the lower gate and taking a taxi up to the upper one is the most comfortable method. Visitors who do it the other way round cover the same distance uphill and in full sun.
Timing, heat and crowds
At an unhurried pace the visit takes three to four hours. In summer a hat, water and sunscreen are essential; there is almost no shade on the site. When cruise ships dock at Kuşadası the ruins get noticeably busier around midday, which makes an early morning the best choice — cooler and calmer at once. Comfortable shoes are not a suggestion but a requirement: the marble streets are slippery.
The House of the Virgin Mary and Selçuk
On the way out of Ephesus you can call at the House of the Virgin Mary on Bülbül Mountain, an important station on the Christian pilgrimage route, and the mountain road is worth the drive in itself. In central Selçuk, the Ephesus Museum and the Basilica of St John make short but rewarding stops. Seeing the museum before the site lets you recognise the statues and finds that are no longer in place; our museum guide explains why.
A break in Şirince
Eight kilometres above Selçuk, Şirince is famous for its stone houses, village breakfasts and fruit wines. Spending the afternoon there and driving back towards İzmir around sunset is the loveliest version of this route. The road up to the village is narrow and winding and traffic builds around midday at weekends, so go early if you can.
Practical notes and transport
If you do not have a car, Selçuk is reachable by İZBAN commuter rail, leaving only a short ride from the station to the site. Those driving can use our free car park on the way back. For a city-centre route the next day, see our İzmir travel guide.
Where to stay
An Ephesus day is tiring, and a quiet room is exactly what you want on the way back. Take a look at our rooms and our gallery; to book, call (0232) 461 95 95.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a visit to Ephesus take?
Three to four hours at an unhurried pace, longer if you include the Terrace Houses. In summer a hat, water and sunscreen are essential because there is almost no shade on the site.
Which gate should I enter Ephesus by?
Enter at the upper (Magnesia) gate and leave by the lower (Harbour) gate. The city is built on a slope, so this way the entire walk is downhill.
How do I get to Ephesus from Bornova?
About an hour to Selçuk by motorway. Without a car, take the İZBAN commuter rail to Selçuk and continue with a short ride to the site.
Can Ephesus and Şirince be done in one day?
Yes. Plan Ephesus for the morning and Şirince for the afternoon; Şirince is 8 km above Selçuk and driving back to İzmir around sunset works comfortably.