The best way to get to know a city is to look down on it. In İzmir there are two classic places to do that: Kadifekale and the historic Asansör (lift). Both look out over the bay, but they tell very different stories — one about how the city was founded, the other about the cosmopolitan İzmir of the early twentieth century.
Kadifekale: the legacy of Pagos
Dating back to the age of Alexander the Great, Kadifekale spreads the whole bay out beneath you from the hill above the city. Known in antiquity as Pagos, this hill is the reason İzmir moved to its present site: the harbour lay below, the defences above. Walking among the walls you take in the city's layers at a glance — neighbourhoods climbing the slope from the port, Karşıyaka on the far shore and Mount Yamanlar behind. Daytime is the best time to go, and because the road up is narrow, public transport or a taxi is more comfortable than driving.
The Asansör: not engineering so much as courtesy
Built in Karataş in 1907 to connect two neighbourhoods, the Asansör was in fact a transport solution: a way to cross the steep slope between the shore and the quarter above it without climbing stairs. Today it is one of İzmir's most romantic spots, and the sunset seen from the upper terrace and restaurant is the most photographed frame in the city. Dario Moreno Street, which climbs to the lift, is a destination in itself with its brightly painted façades and potted plants.
Light and timing: when to photograph
These two viewpoints work at different hours of the same day. Kadifekale is best in the morning and early afternoon, when the sun comes across the bay and the city reads bright. The Asansör belongs to the late afternoon, with the setting sun directly ahead of you. Reverse the order and you get shade at Kadifekale and backlight at the Asansör — still a fine view, but not the photograph you were hoping for.
A suggested half-day route
Start in Konak in the afternoon with the Asansör and Dario Moreno Street, climb to Kadifekale towards sunset and finish the evening on the Kordon. Alternatively, Kadifekale in the morning, Kemeraltı at lunch and the Asansör in the late afternoon also works and shortens the walking. Our Kordon guide covers the evening leg.
A third option: the far shore
Beyond those two classics there is the opposite bank, for anyone who wants to see the gulf from the other direction. From the Karşıyaka and Bostanlı waterfronts, Kadifekale and the city's hillside appear in a single frame, and in the evening the city lights spill onto the water. Going over by ferry spreads the view across the journey itself — the bay ferry is İzmir's cheapest and finest tour. In other words, seeing İzmir "from above" does not always mean climbing a hill; sometimes it just means crossing the water.
Practical notes
Kadifekale is an open site with limited shade, so a hat and water are necessary on a summer midday. The Asansör's upper terrace is run as a restaurant, gets busy in the evening, and booking ahead saves waiting at weekends. The distance between the two points is short, but the slope is steep enough that walking between them is not a plan. Kadifekale sits in a residential quarter; do not expect tourist infrastructure, go during the day and keep valuables out of sight. When photographing, remember you are in someone's neighbourhood.
Where to start
From MyMahall Hotel in Bornova you can take the metro down to Konak and do this whole route in one go — with your car in the hotel's free car park, you never hunt for a space in the centre. Take a look at our rooms or book on (0232) 461 95 95; you will find us on the contact page.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get up to Kadifekale?
The road to the top is narrow, so public transport or a taxi is more comfortable than driving. It is a short journey from Konak.
When is the best time to visit the Asansör?
The Asansör is a transport structure with a restaurant and terrace at the top. Sunset is the finest hour; weekend evenings are busy, so booking ahead helps.
Can Kadifekale and the Asansör be seen on the same day?
Yes. The ideal order is Kadifekale in the morning or early afternoon and the Asansör in the late afternoon, so that you watch the sunset from the terrace.
How do I reach this route from Bornova?
Take the metro from MyMahall Hotel down to Konak. The whole route starts around Konak, and you can leave your car in the hotel's free car park.